PARIS — Our favourite fashion week is here: Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week.
The designs are always larger-than-life and produce irreplaceably elegant pieces.
Without further ado:
CHANEL / Grand Palais / 24 January 2017
Karl Lagerfeld proposed a new catwalk silhouette by sculpting skirts into ovoid shapes and padding out slender hips. The inspiration for the silhouette is Alberto Giacometti’s 1920’s sculpture, “Spoon Woman”. The collection’s colour scheme and setting pays homage to British interior designer of the same era, Syrie Maugham; the white catwalk and seating alludes to the all-white interiors Maugham popularised. The centrepiece of mirrored screens is another Maugham-inspired touch. Finally, I couldn’t help but notice that Lagerfeld blended Mica Levi’s same powerful, haunting score that was in ‘Jackie’.
Giambattista Valli / French Archives / 23 January 2017
Giambattista Valli invited some guests of his couture show on Monday night, held at the French Archives, to tour a space that had never before been open to the public. Sheltered inside were rare documents from a host of French kings and the letters of Marie-Antoinette.
The collection opened with simple cream silk tunics, shifts, and trousers with the pressed-in folds Prada popularized — only Valli amped them up with cages of crystal embroideries.
He then switched gears several times, cycling through bulbous ballgowns in colored lace, Eighties minis in duchess satin with ruffled trains or feathered hems, and sinuous tulle columns crawling with botanical and floral embroideries.
They all bore Valli’s celebration of unbridled femininity, as did bi-level chiffon gowns revealing toned legs in front and a long, fluttering train in the back.
Ralph & Russo / Grand Palais / 23 January 2017
Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo presented a more contemporary, urban collection for spring than in seasons past, injecting their line with a range of playful daywear options.
These included dresses with geometric motifs like checks — such as a knee-length silk-sibeline suit with a wide belt and a tweed minidress with silk organza ruffled sleeves. A cropped top came with wide trousers, each trimmed with pearl and glass beads.
Thankfully, the brand’s core red carpet-worthy gowns still had a strong presence. There was Old Hollywood glamour channeled through a black tulle strapless gown appliquéd with silk organza and a white tulle ballgown with ruffle skirt. The black tulle cocktail number adorned with silk petals, glass beads, and ostrich feathers, and the silver foil fringe-and-feather dress were lovely.
The display ended with a bridal gown fit for a queen, with white tulle and pale gray organza.
Georges Hobeika / 23 January 2017
Georges Hobeika has been selected as one of the chosen ones for Haute Couture Week. The couturier of Lebanese origin, common on the runways of the French capital, presents a delicate and feminine collection with flowers as protagonists in pastel flowing dresses.
White, pink, turquoise blue, ruffles, lots of brilliance, and fluid fabrics are observed in these highly crafted creations by Hobeika. The dresses move around the body. The delicate lace bustiers are covered with sequins and crystals. The ruffles flutter at the bodice neckline, which are prolonged by a beautiful length of dress. Accessories, such as pearl bags or jewelry, accentuate the freshness and grace of a seductive collection.